...Psych! We're taking a "little" detour over to San Francisco!
Distance Traveled: At Least 10
Random? I think not! San Francisco is ranked as one of the best cities for biking in the world by Bicycling Magazine. I would say that this is a relevant diversion. First let me describe why I'm here. My best friend, Andrew Davis, is a Marine. For the last 64 weeks he has been learning to speak Korean. I came out to watch his graduation ceremony. It was brilliant! He actually gave a graduation speech in Korean, and received an award from his teachers for being an outstanding student. The rest of the time we have been hanging around. The other day his parents and I headed north to San Fran, and of course I wasn't going to pass up a bike ride.
This presented me with an interesting challenge. I had one day (and actually only a few hours) to experience the essence of a city from a cyclist's perspective. What makes it such a famous biking haven? Is it the infrastructure; the attitude, or something else? I could never imagine "experiencing" New York in a day, so I wasn't sure how to go about doing this. I began by renting a bike at Pier 39, one of the city's most popular attractions, and then headed West towards the Golden Gate Bridge. When you rent the bike, it comes with a map attached to the handle bars and lays out a very touristy route [depicted right]. They were hesitant to tell me about the best routes through town, so I eventually found my own way.
This is a very beautiful city, especially along the north side. It screams picturesque with it's lushes greenery and the Golden Gate Bridge gracefully arching tall in the distance against a clear blue, cloudless backdrop.
It seems like there are two types of cyclists in San Fransisco. First you have the tourists. Their skill level varies, but are generally limited by the efficiency of their rented bicycle. Invariably the tourists stop on the trails to take pictures (understandably), but this causes congestion. It also makes the other kind of cyclists angry. These people are the spandex-wearing, super-lightweight racing bike toting crowd, who take themselveswa y to seriously (That's my opinion my opinion, of course). They shout at tourists who dare to block their infinitely important riding routine. While I agree that tourists should be a little smarter when it comes to dismounting and taking pictures, I think that the "spandexers" need to get over themselves and bare with the congestion. The best example of this conflict is on the Golden Gate Bridge. Right as I was about to get on the bridge, I noticed a group of tourist at the head of the bridge getting ready to start the ride across. One of the machocyclers came up the trail and started yelling at them because they were in the way. I saw several other examples of this as I went across.It doesn't surprise me that this occurs though. If we look at the three East river Bridges in New York, we have the Brooklyn Bridge, the Manhattan Bridge, and then theWilliamsburg bridge. Aside from being one of the greatest structures ever built, The Brooklyn Bridge is a tourist super magnet. As I have discussed in previous posts, I've got a thing for bridges, so bare with me (I also can't imagine who wouldn't want to ride across the Golden Gate Bridge and take pictures!) I rode the trail up to the western side, which is reserved for bicycle traffic, and began the assent. The east side is for pedestrians [depicted left].
Unlike on the Brooklyn bridge, this separation between bicycles and pedestrians is clearly followed. On the Brooklyn Bridge, the Northern half of the promenade is divided into a set of east and westbound bike lanes, while the southern end is for tourists. Since both are on the same surface and the bridge is such a popular tourist attraction, pedestrians rarely stick to their own side. This makes the Brooklyn Bridge a nightmare for commuters. According to my research, those who choose to commute to work via bicycle go out of their way to avoid the Brooklyn Bridge because of the crowds. In this way, the Brooklyn bridge absorbs most of the tourist traffic, leaving theWilliamsburg and Manhattan Bridges open for traffic. The Golden Gate stands alone, forcing the tourists and the hardcore to merge on one path. While commuters and racing jockeys are much different types of riders, the principle is the same.
This same delineation between cyclists and pedestrians is evident throughout the city's parks. I think that this goes beyond safety though. While yes you want to keep people from getting hit by bicycles, signs such as that on the right send a message of legitimacy to walkers and cyclists alike. It says (rhetorically) "I am supposed to be here; this path is meant specifically for me to exercise this form of transportation." If indeed sustainability is about changing behavior, as I am trying to prove, then this type of infrastructure is essential. It gives people the impression that it's acceptable, common, and just plain doable. This in turn encourages people to try it.
It's ironic that San Fran is such a renowned biking city considering its hills. I have mixed feelings about them. They defiantly suck going up, but are incredible on the way down! I was alright for the most part. There was only one hill that I absolutely could not get up, even while standing straight up on the pedals in the lowest gear [depicted left]. Just over this hill is one of the most crooked streets in the country [depicted right]. I had a lot of fun riding down it and weaving in between the cars that cautiously braked their way to the bottom.
As I rode I saw something unique. every soften there were bicycle signs with numbers on them. I would have to examine an actual bike map of the city to tell, but it seems like the city has a number of routes throughout the city for be to utilize. Interestingly, finding a bike map of the city is a little more difficult than one would think. Whereas in New York I can walk into any bike shop in the city and pick up a bike map, it's unusually difficult to find a bike map in San Fran. Yes, it is available online for free, but when I asked around, no one knew exactly where I could find a hard copy. One person mentioned something about a map for $11. I looked up online later and found out that you can order a map for $5 + shipping online. This surprised me given its ranking as a world class biking city.
Once I was away from the tourist magnets like the bridge, the Presido, the North Park, ect, I found myself back on the city streets. Something I noted was the feeling that came to me once I was back in the raw, everyday, non touristy urban atmosphere. Sure it felt good for me as a city guy, but beyond that it felt familiar. I think there's a certain universality about urban riding. Yes every city is completely different from the next, but despite this unique character, the riding is essentially the same. Maybe you give a little more power here because of the hills, or pull the brakes there because of the decent down a bridge, but essentially you are still doing the same thing in a different place. What I'm getting at is this: Biking does not change. Riding on the streets, or in between backed up traffic during rush hour feels the same where ever you are. What's different is the surrounding environment. THAT is what makes the experience unique. Where you bike is just as much if not more important than the actual biking itself. Cycling (the non competitive kind) is almost like wearing glasses. You wear them, not for the sake of wearing them, but for the ability to see the environment around you.
There is a lot more of this beautiful city to explore. Despite what some magazine says, I still think New York is a better city to ride it for its iconography, diversity of "place," and the easy access to both cycling infrastructure and information about the initiatives. I still intend to come back some day and give San Francisco a true "once-over" where I will have more time to explore different aspects of the city.